{"id":14928,"date":"2018-03-09T11:04:49","date_gmt":"2018-03-09T10:04:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=14928"},"modified":"2018-08-24T20:23:38","modified_gmt":"2018-08-24T19:23:38","slug":"la-finesse-avant-lepice","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=14928","title":{"rendered":"Bonne bouche \u2014 La finesse avant l’\u00e9pice"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Rubrique \u00abbonne bouche\u00bb, par Pierre Thomas<\/strong><\/em><\/div>\n
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\"\"<\/a>La M\u00e9moire des Vins suisses <\/em>est une association qui a pour objectif de tester le potentiel de garde des vins suisses. Dans ce qu\u2019on appelle son \u00abtr\u00e9sor\u00bb<\/em>, elle conserve plusieurs mill\u00e9simes d\u2019une cinquantaine de vins renomm\u00e9s de tout le pays. Ceux-ci sont r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement d\u00e9gust\u00e9s.<\/div>\n
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Mais les membres de la prestigieuse association regrettent parfois que ces vins passent inaper\u00e7us dans le concert des crus helv\u00e9tiques, dont ils sont de brillants solistes. Pourtant un seul a eu l\u2019id\u00e9e d\u2019inscrire le logo du cercle vertueux juste sous l\u2019\u00e9tiquette, en petites lettres: le producteur du Traminer du Cru de l\u2019H\u00f4pital<\/strong>, \u00e0 M\u00f4tier (FR). Cet hiver, j\u2019ai r\u00e9dig\u00e9, \u00e0 la t\u00eate d\u2019une commission, les commentaires des vins pour le site www.mdvs.ch<\/a><\/strong>. Sans trahir le secret des d\u00e9lib\u00e9rations, j\u2019ai donn\u00e9 \u00e0 ce blanc la note de 19\/20 dans les mill\u00e9simes les plus r\u00e9cents, 2016 et 2013, et de 18\/20 pour 2010 et 2007. C\u2019est dire que ce vin se tient fort bien dans le temps et figure parmi les meilleurs blancs du pays.<\/div>\n
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Pour le 2016, j\u2019ai not\u00e9 \u00abune attaque fra\u00eeche, une belle tension en milieu de bouche; du gras, de la puissance et de l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance, avec une longue persistance: un tr\u00e8s joli vin aromatique!\u00bb<\/em> Parfait, par exemple, sur des plats tha\u00efs nement \u00e9pic\u00e9s. Le vigneron-encaveur, Christian Vessaz<\/strong>, pratique la biodynamie, certifi\u00e9e Demeter, sur ses 13 hectares de vignes, dont un de Traminer. Le mo\u00fbt a ferment\u00e9gr\u00e2ce \u00e0 ses propres levures et n\u2019a pas accompli de seconde fermentation (malolactique). Il est, comme dit l\u2019\u0153nologue, \u00able moins vari\u00e9tal possible\u00bb<\/em>. Dans le Vully, le gewurztraminer a, du reste, perdu son pr\u00e9fixe \u00e9pic\u00e9 (gew\u00fcrz). Et tous les producteurs de ce c\u00e9page venu d\u2019Alsace dans les ann\u00e9es 1950 adh\u00e8rent \u00e0 une charte.<\/div>\n
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A cheval entre la Suisse romande et al\u00e9manique, partag\u00e9 entre Vaud et Fribourg, le Vully et ses 150 hectares de vignes, explose de dynamisme. La troisi\u00e8me g\u00e9n\u00e9ration d\u2019encaveurs montre son nez, au point que Christian Vessaz, 40 ans, para\u00eet d\u00e9j\u00e0 un \u00abvieux sage\u00bb<\/em>.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

L\u2019\u00e9tiquette\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>Traminer du Vully 2016<\/p>\n

Le prix\u00a0<\/strong><\/em>28fr. les75cl<\/p>\n

L\u2019adresse<\/strong><\/em> www.cru-hopital.ch<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Paru dans <\/em>encore! suppl\u00e9ment du <\/em>Matin-Dimanche et de la <\/em>Sonntagszeitung du 5 mars 2018.<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Rubrique \u00abbonne bouche\u00bb, par Pierre Thomas La M\u00e9moire des Vins suisses est une association qui a pour objectif de tester le potentiel de garde des vins suisses. Dans ce qu\u2019on appelle son \u00abtr\u00e9sor\u00bb, elle conserve plusieurs mill\u00e9simes d\u2019une cinquantaine de vins renomm\u00e9s de tout le pays. Ceux-ci sont r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement d\u00e9gust\u00e9s. Mais les membres de la […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[1433],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nBonne bouche \u2014 La finesse avant l'\u00e9pice - thomasvino<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=14928\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bonne bouche \u2014 La finesse avant l'\u00e9pice - thomasvino\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Rubrique \u00abbonne bouche\u00bb, par Pierre Thomas La M\u00e9moire des Vins suisses est une association qui a pour objectif de tester le potentiel de garde des vins suisses. 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Cette question taraude le milieu viticole helv\u00e9tique depuis que le d\u00e9clin des coop\u00e9ratives a rendu prosp\u00e8res les vignerons encaveurs ind\u00e9pendants, c'est-\u00e0-dire les viticulteurs qui, en Suisse, \u00e9l\u00e8vent le vin de leur propri\u00e9t\u00e9 et le vendent en bouteille\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":10857,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=10857","url_meta":{"origin":14928,"position":1},"title":"M\u00e9moire des vins suisses: les vins les plus r\u00e9ussis","date":"26 juin 2013","format":false,"excerpt":"(Vins d\u00e9gust\u00e9s \u00e0 Bellinzone le 14 mars 2013 lors de la d\u00e9gustation pr\u00e9c\u00e9dant l\u2019assembl\u00e9e g\u00e9n\u00e9rale de la MDVS.) Vins tr\u00e8s r\u00e9ussis (+\/- 90 points) Blancs Saint-Saphorin Les Manchettes 2011, chasselas, Pierre Monachon, Rivaz Belle min\u00e9ralit\u00e9, puissant, gras, avec une note crayeuse en fin de bouche. Tr\u00e8s expressif\u00a0! Aigle GC Clos\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":9297,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=9297","url_meta":{"origin":14928,"position":2},"title":"D\u00e9gustation\u2014 Les non-filtr\u00e9s de Neuch\u00e2tel 2003","date":"13 janvier 2005","format":false,"excerpt":"Vins suisses \u2014 D\u00e9gustation Dix non-filtr\u00e9s de Neuch\u00e2tel 2003, de trois types 1) Type vin jeune, ar\u00f4mes d'agrumes *Domaine Grisoni, Cressier Nez de fruits exotiques, ananas, citron vert; structure l\u00e9g\u00e8re \u00e0 moyenne; finale toute en rondeur, vinification moderne. *Caves Ch\u00e2tenay-Bouvier, Boudry Nez pur et fin, citronn\u00e9, touche anis\u00e9e; attaque sur\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":16080,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=16080","url_meta":{"origin":14928,"position":3},"title":"Bonne bouche: du Vully au Caucase","date":"16 septembre 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"En mai, le Concours mondial de Bruxelles s\u2019est tenu \u00e0 Aigle (VD). A la cl\u00e9, une forte participation de vins suisses et 7 grandes m\u00e9dailles d\u2019or et 50 d\u2019or. Du jamais vu dans une telle comp\u00e9tition, o\u00f9 les vins suisses, peu ou pas export\u00e9s, vont chercher la reconnaissance internationale. On\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Bonne bouche \u2014 encore!"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":18335,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=18335","url_meta":{"origin":14928,"position":4},"title":"Bonne bouche: innovation… durable en Valais","date":"20 novembre 2023","format":false,"excerpt":"Tout sourit \u00e0 Olivier Mounir. Le Haut-Valaisan \u00e9tait, fin octobre, le seul vigneron convi\u00e9 au \u00abForum des 100\u00bb (Romands de l\u2019ann\u00e9e...), du journal Le Temps, gr\u00e2ce au titre de \u00abCave de l\u2019ann\u00e9e 2023\u00bb, obtenu en 2022, notamment pour sa syrah. Aujourd\u2019hui quinquag\u00e9naire, Olivier et Sandra, un couple d\u2019entrepreneurs, a d\u00e9cid\u00e9\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Bonne bouche \u2014 encore!"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thomasvino.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/encore_pinotage_Rhodan_1123-206x300.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":8843,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=8843","url_meta":{"origin":14928,"position":5},"title":"Lausanne branch\u00e9 vins","date":"28 janvier 2009","format":false,"excerpt":"Une id\u00e9e enfin concr\u00e9tis\u00e9e... Midi 20, \u00able\u00bb bar \u00e0 vinsJe passais devant r\u00e9guli\u00e8rement: la vitrine des Vins d'Honneur, \u00e0 la rue du Midi, entre la gare et la place Saint-Fran\u00e7ois, \u00e0 Lausanne offrait toujours une fen\u00eatre originale sur des vins italiens, espagnols, suisses aussi... Un jour, son animateur m'a dit\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Midi 20"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14928"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=14928"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/14928\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=14928"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=14928"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=14928"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}