{"id":15854,"date":"2019-05-29T15:54:13","date_gmt":"2019-05-29T14:54:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=15854"},"modified":"2019-05-29T15:54:13","modified_gmt":"2019-05-29T14:54:13","slug":"bonne-bouche-la-face-cachee-du-mont-rose","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=15854","title":{"rendered":"Bonne bouche: la face cach\u00e9e du Mont-Rose"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a>Tout bon Suisse (ou qui veut le devenir\u2026) ne saurait l\u2019ignorer\u00a0: le plus haut sommet de nos Alpes est la pointe Dufour, \u00e0 4634 m\u00e8tres. Seul le Mont-Blanc, plus haut sommet d\u2019Europe, la surpasse. Ce pic discret fait partie du Mont-Rose, versant zermattois.<\/p>\n

Mais qui sait que ce massif, au relief himalayen, prot\u00e8ge, sur son versant italien, un vignoble en pleine renaissance, gr\u00e2ce au r\u00e9chauffement climatique? La vigne couvrait ce pi\u00e9mont, d\u2019Ivrea \u00e0 Domodossola, sur 40’000 hectares avant le phyllox\u00e9ra et l\u2019industrialisation. Il en reste un petit millier\u2026 Il y a exactement 50 ans, les \u00abdenominazione d\u2019origine controllata\u00bb (DOC)<\/a>, ont sauv\u00e9 ce qui pouvait l\u2019\u00eatre<\/strong>. Des deux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de la rivi\u00e8re Sesia, n\u00e9e du Mont-Rose et qui se jette dans le P\u00f4, les DOC Gattinara (moins de 100 ha) et Ghemme (50 ha), entre le magique lac d\u2019Orta et l\u2019industrielle Novare, ont \u00e9t\u00e9 promues DOCG (DOC \u00abgarantita\u00bb), au sommet de la hi\u00e9rarchie des vins italiens.<\/p>\n

On y cultive d\u2019abord le nebbiolo, connu non seulement dans cet Alto Piemonte, mais dans l\u2019\u00abautre\u00bb Pi\u00e9mont, celui du barolo et du barbaresco. Des jeunes et des anciens sont revenus \u00e0 la vigne. Comme Giovanni Brugo<\/strong>, rencontr\u00e9 dans la cour du ch\u00e2teau de Ghemme, o\u00f9 il a sa cave vo\u00fbt\u00e9e, \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9 de l\u2019\u0153noth\u00e8que r\u00e9gionale. J\u2019ai d\u00e9gust\u00e9 son 2012, (90% nebbiolo, 10% vespolina, une vari\u00e9t\u00e9 locale), sapide, \u00e9l\u00e9gant et bien \u00e9lev\u00e9, sans savoir que c\u2019\u00e9tait son premier mill\u00e9sime. A 60 ans, ce chirurgien-orthop\u00e9diste a repris 2 hectares de vignes, pour faire du vin comme ses grands-parents. Cette Riserva 2012 est pass\u00e9e cinq ans, d\u2019abord en barriques fran\u00e7aises neuves, puis en grands f\u00fbts de ch\u00eane de Slavonie. Le 2013 sera embouteill\u00e9 cet \u00e9t\u00e9. Pas de 2014, ann\u00e9e pluvieuse difficile, et tr\u00e8s peu de 2015…<\/p>\n

Le Dr Brugo<\/strong> re\u00e7oit sur place, dans un caveau en briques du vieux village fortifi\u00e9, et n\u2019exporte pas une bouteille. Et comme le Mont-Rose, il est binational\u00a0: d\u2019anc\u00eatres tessinois, les Rossi<\/strong>, il a conserv\u00e9 le passeport rouge \u00e0 croix blanche.<\/p>\n

L\u2019\u00e9tiquette\u00a0<\/strong>Ghemme Riserva 2012<\/p>\n

Le prix\u00a0<\/strong>24 euros<\/p>\n

L\u2019adresse\u00a0<\/strong>info@pietraforata.com<\/strong><\/a>(et sur Facebook<\/strong><\/em><\/a>)<\/p>\n

Paru dans le magazine <\/em>encore! du 26 mai 2019.<\/em><\/p>\n

\u00a9thomasvino.ch<\/em><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Tout bon Suisse (ou qui veut le devenir\u2026) ne saurait l\u2019ignorer\u00a0: le plus haut sommet de nos Alpes est la pointe Dufour, \u00e0 4634 m\u00e8tres. Seul le Mont-Blanc, plus haut sommet d\u2019Europe, la surpasse. Ce pic discret fait partie du Mont-Rose, versant zermattois. Mais qui sait que ce massif, au relief himalayen, prot\u00e8ge, sur son […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[1433],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nBonne bouche: la face cach\u00e9e du Mont-Rose - thomasvino<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=15854\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bonne bouche: la face cach\u00e9e du Mont-Rose - thomasvino\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Tout bon Suisse (ou qui veut le devenir\u2026) ne saurait l\u2019ignorer\u00a0: le plus haut sommet de nos Alpes est la pointe Dufour, \u00e0 4634 m\u00e8tres. 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Par Pierre Thomas,\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins italiens"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thomasvino.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/04\/site_guardasole_verte-300x300.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]}],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15854"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=15854"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15854\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":15858,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/15854\/revisions\/15858"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=15854"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=15854"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=15854"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}