{"id":18411,"date":"2024-04-16T09:26:46","date_gmt":"2024-04-16T08:26:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=18411"},"modified":"2024-04-16T09:26:46","modified_gmt":"2024-04-16T08:26:46","slug":"bonne-bouche-un-vaudois-iconoclaste","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=18411","title":{"rendered":"Bonne bouche: un Vaudois iconoclaste"},"content":{"rendered":"

Au moment o\u00f9 le monde vitivinicole vaudois souhaite changer le moins possible son cadre l\u00e9gal<\/a><\/strong>, le consommateur devrait privil\u00e9gier que du \u00abgrand cru\u00bb<\/em> (ou du \u00ab1er<\/sup> grand cru\u00bb<\/em>). C\u2019est, en effet, la seule garantie que le chasselas contenu dans une bouteille corresponde vraiment au pedigree figurant sur l\u2019\u00e9tiquette.<\/p>\n

A Lavaux, inscrit au Patrimoine mondial de l\u2019Unesco, deux appellations d\u2019origine contr\u00f4l\u00e9e (AOC), D\u00e9zaley (54 hectares) et Calamin (16 ha), apr\u00e8s avoir perdu leur rang, ont obtenu, d\u00e8s le mill\u00e9sime 2013, un \u00absurclassement\u00bb<\/em> en Grand Cru pour toute leur surface. Mieux, les vins issus de ces deux terroirs ne sont \u00abni ouill\u00e9s, ni coup\u00e9s\u00bb<\/em>\u00a0: ils sont donc \u00e0 100% tir\u00e9s de raisins de ces dits lieux. Pour autant, sont-ils semblables\u00a0? Bien s\u00fbr que non\u00a0: m\u00eame identiques, sous-sol, sol et climat ne sont que quelques \u00e9l\u00e9ments qui d\u00e9finissent un cru. Au final, c\u2019est l\u2019Homme qui fait le vin\u00a0! A Lavaux, un chasselas traditionnel reste le plus souvent \u00e9lev\u00e9 en cuve en acier, en inox ou en vase de bois (grand tonneau). Et il accomplit sa deuxi\u00e8me fermentation, dite \u00abmalolactique\u00bb<\/em>, soit la transformation de l\u2019acide malique, coupable d\u2019une certaine verdeur, en acide lactique, qui arrondit les angles d\u2019un vin blanc d\u00e9licat.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Patriarche de Lavaux, tout juste nonag\u00e9naire, Louis-Philippe Bovard<\/a> a \u00abr\u00e9volutionn\u00e9\u00bb<\/em> ce mode de faire avec son Calamin Ilex<\/strong> (le houx, en latin), cultiv\u00e9 sur les argiles lourdes, sous le village d\u2019Epesses. Son chasselas, sans malolactique, pour lui conserver du nerf, passe dix mois en barriques de ch\u00eane de 225 litres. Gras, puissant, avec une l\u00e9g\u00e8re note torr\u00e9fi\u00e9e, le 2022 est \u00e9videmment tr\u00e8s, trop, jeune. Car, quelle que soit la vinification, Bovard<\/strong> est un chantre des chasselas \u00ablongue dur\u00e9e\u00bb<\/em>, notamment avec son D\u00e9zaley Grand Cru La M\u00e9dinette, que le temps complexifie, comme le d\u00e9montrent les d\u00e9gustations de la M\u00e9moire des vins suisses (www.memoire.wine<\/a><\/strong>).<\/p>\n

L\u2019\u00e9tiquette\u00a0:<\/strong> Ilex, AOC Calamin Grand Cru, 2022<\/p>\n

Le prix\u00a0:<\/strong> 27 fr.\/70 cl<\/p>\n

L\u2019adresse\u00a0<\/strong>: www.domainebovard.com<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n

Paru dans le magazine lifestyle encore!<\/a><\/strong> du 14 avril 2024, photo Martine Dutruit<\/strong>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Au moment o\u00f9 le monde vitivinicole vaudois souhaite changer le moins possible son cadre l\u00e9gal, le consommateur devrait privil\u00e9gier que du \u00abgrand cru\u00bb (ou du \u00ab1er grand cru\u00bb). C\u2019est, en effet, la seule garantie que le chasselas contenu dans une bouteille corresponde vraiment au pedigree figurant sur l\u2019\u00e9tiquette. A Lavaux, inscrit au Patrimoine mondial de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_is_tweetstorm":false,"jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","enabled":false}}},"categories":[1433],"tags":[],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"yoast_head":"\nBonne bouche: un Vaudois iconoclaste - thomasvino<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=18411\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Bonne bouche: un Vaudois iconoclaste - thomasvino\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Au moment o\u00f9 le monde vitivinicole vaudois souhaite changer le moins possible son cadre l\u00e9gal, le consommateur devrait privil\u00e9gier que du \u00abgrand cru\u00bb (ou du \u00ab1er grand cru\u00bb). C\u2019est, en effet, la seule garantie que le chasselas contenu dans une bouteille corresponde vraiment au pedigree figurant sur l\u2019\u00e9tiquette. 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En Valais, les communes doivent mettre leur cahier des charges en conformit\u00e9 avec le mod\u00e8le cantonal. En attendant une bouteille distinctive... Par Pierre Thomas D\u00e8s\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"gc_vetroz.jpg","src":"img\/gc_vetroz.jpg","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":9765,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=9765","url_meta":{"origin":18411,"position":1},"title":"Valais \u2014 Les Grands Crus de V\u00e9troz 2003 en blanc","date":"9 janvier 2005","format":false,"excerpt":"Grands Crus de V\u00e9troz L\u2019amigne et le fendant dominent Le canton du Valais vient d\u2019adopter un cadre l\u00e9gal pour l\u2019appellation Grand Cru. A V\u00e9troz, un tel r\u00e8glement existe depuis onze ans. Quatre vins peuvent y pr\u00e9tendre : deux rouges, le pinot noir et la d\u00f4le, et deux blancs, le fendant\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"","width":0,"height":0},"classes":[]},{"id":14707,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=14707","url_meta":{"origin":18411,"position":2},"title":"Lauriers de Platine Terravin\u00a0: un Aigle s\u2019impose","date":"19 novembre 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Les raisins viennent bien du Chablais, mais le producteur est de Lavaux\u00a0: c\u2019est l\u2019Aigle Grand Cru 2016 vinifi\u00e9 au Domaine d\u2019Aucr\u00eat par Michel Blanche et ses collaborateurs qui s\u2019est impos\u00e9, lors de la dixi\u00e8me \u00e9dition des Lauriers de Platine de Terravin r\u00e9serv\u00e9s aux chasselas vaudois 2016. Par Pierre Thomas Pour\u2026","rel":"","context":"Dans "Vins suisses"","img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/thomasvino.ch\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/11\/site_laur_4-finalistes-300x252.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":16786,"url":"https:\/\/thomasvino.ch\/?p=16786","url_meta":{"origin":18411,"position":3},"title":"Bonne bouche \u2014 Offrez-vous un ch\u00e2teau vaudois!","date":"14 septembre 2020","format":false,"excerpt":"Vous n\u2019avez pas une poign\u00e9e de millions\u00a0de francs \u00e0 placer? Le Ch\u00e2teau Le Rosey, dominant le village de Bursins, sur La C\u00f4te vaudoise, est \u00e0 vendre. Son propri\u00e9taire, l\u2019architecte et esth\u00e8te genevois Pierre Bouvier l\u2019a patiemment r\u00e9nov\u00e9, depuis vingt ans, avec un go\u00fbt tr\u00e8s s\u00fbr. 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